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How to Read a Skincare Ingredient List, and Why Nothing in the Bottle Is Filler

The ingredients you can't pronounce are usually the ones that give results. Once you know how the list is built, an ingredient list stops being intimidating and starts being useful. Here's how to read one.

Aqua is water. Tocopherol is vitamin E. Aloe barbadensis is aloe.
Most of the names that make an ingredient list look intimidating are just the standard name for something ordinary.

The back panel (INCI list) is the one part that can't be exaggerated.
The front can make promises, the back is the real formulation.
Once you know how the list is ordered, you can read it in about ten seconds.

The INCI | A Global System

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives every ingredient one standard name, so a formula reads the same in Sydney, London or Seoul. That's the only reason it looks technical, and it means a Latin name is neither a warning nor a recommendation.

The order is where it gets interesting. Ingredients are listed by concentration, highest first, down to 1%. Below that, they can appear in any order, which is where a lot of headline actives quietly end up. When an active sits near the top, it's there at a dose that can do something.

Everything in the Rejuvaus bottle is functional

There's a persistent idea that a formula is a few precious ingredients floating in a base of something inactive. In a more considered formula, that's not how it works. Each ingredient on the list is there for a reason.

The base

For our serums we use aloe as the carrier for hydration and soothing properties, rather than plain water.

The actives

The ingredients targeting a specific concern. In our formulas they sit high on the list at clinically tested doses, not a token amount added for the front of the box.

Delivery

Encapsulation and liposomal carriers that move an active past the surface and release it slowly, so it keeps working for hours rather than minutes.

The functional support

Ferments, humectants, barrier lipids and soothing agents that keep skin comfortable and help the actives do their job.

Preservation

The small amounts at the end that keep the formula safe and stable. Tiny on the list, essential in the bottle.

Nothing spare

No silicones for slip, no petrochemical fillers to pad out the formula. If it's in a Rejuvaus bottle, it's has earned its place on the list.

The unfamiliar names, translated

The names that look most alien are usually the actives doing the most specific work. We group every active by the job it does, into eight categories of action. Here are a few people rarely recognise, and what each is for.

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Terminalia Ferdinandiana

Kakadu plum, one of the richest natural sources of vitamin C.

Antioxidant

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

A peptide that softens the look of expression lines, better known as SNAP-8.

Growth factors & peptides

Nonapeptide-1

A peptide that helps keep tone even by regulating pigment.

Pigment regulator

Chlorella Vulgaris

A microalgae prebiotic that supports a balanced skin microbiome.

Pre, pro & post biotics

Medicago Sativa

Alfalfa extract, which calms and soothes. Found in every serum & moisturiser in the range.

Anti-inflammatory

Microcitrus Australasica

Native caviar lime, a gentle fruit-acid exfoliant.

Exfoliant

Sodium Hyaluronate

A form of hyaluronic acid that holds water in the skin.

True moisturiser

Zinc Oxide

A mineral that reflects UV light for daily protection.

Mineral protection

That is the logic of the whole range: eight categories of action, over 100 actives, each one there to do a defined job.
Nothing is in the bottle by accident.

Explore i·Active™ formulation

How does the Rejuvaus INCI stack up?

The range is built to survive a close reading of its own ingredient list. Aloe first, with key active ingredients high on the list, some withn encapsulated delivery so they reach the skin deeply, slowly and progressively.

Ferments and barrier support because comfortable skin can tolerate actives better. No silicones or petrochemical fillers.

And the bottles themselves are part of the formulation logic: overfilled to reduce the air gap, airless and lightproof, so what's on the list is still active when it reaches your skin, and to the last drop.

For that, see the companion piece on what "clinically dosed" actually means.

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Common questions

Reviewed by Dr Garry Cussell, skin specialist.

How do you read a skincare ingredient list?

Ingredients are listed from most to least, down to the one percent mark, after which they can appear in any order. So the first several ingredients make up most of the formula. If the actives you want sit near the end, there is probably very little of them in the product.

What does INCI mean?

INCI stands for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a global naming system that gives every ingredient one standard name, so a label reads consistently worldwide. The scientific name and the unfamiliar name on the box are the same thing.

Are ingredients you cannot pronounce bad for your skin?

No. A long or unfamiliar name simply reflects the INCI naming system, not safety or quality. Some of the gentlest, most useful ingredients have the most technical-sounding names.

Is water bad in a serum?

Not at all, water is a normal and useful base. It is worth knowing when it is the first ingredient, though, because it tells you what makes up most of the product. Rejuvaus serums use aloe as the first ingredient instead, so the base itself is working.

What is a functional base?

It is the part of a formula beyond the headline actives, the humectants, ferments, barrier lipids and soothing agents. On a considered product these are not filler. They keep skin comfortable and help the actives do their job.

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